DALAROY WAS HERE!.. /18.9. 2007

The familiar sound of fighter jets in early morning did wake me up. The day before they were flying so high that it was almost difficult to see them – but now the roar over the Wutai Shan Mountains was so strong. The serene beauty of the landscape is in sharp contrast with these killer birds. And so are most of the buildings in this village just in outskirts of the cluster of temples and monasteries here. We were back on the road again – after spending a week resting and sightseeing in the oh-so polluted city of Taiyuan. The coal capital of China

The evening before we rode in to this valley in pouring rain. Everything was wet, wet, wet.. And we were very tired after some heavy climbing. It was meant to be a short cut, but ended up being a true exercise in n heavy duty mountain trekking. Both for the horses and ourselves. Luckily it was not raining then. The rain started to come down just as we passed complex of temples. And people had assured us that this time of year is dry. Everything is relative. “ Tsjen-liang-sse 24.6. 1908 … The road continues, during the rest of the day along a riverbed. After 51 li we pass a small temple – Utai sse, raised in the honor of the rain god (Lung Wang). It is said to be from the Zhou Dynasty, but it looks, after recent renovations brand new. It is raining now, but one is never content. The God is taken out for a ride in carrier stool that looks rather comfortable. A dozen children and men in rags surround him. These people in their dirty rags are in sharp contrast to carrier stools golden decorations and the temples uncommonly tidy surroundings. To the tones of two whining clarinets and a couple of brass plates they proceed slowly, but hurry away when they notice my camera…. ……… Our accommodation for the night is a temple in decay and just before us a Buddha reincarnation from Tibet has arrived. He sits a separate room silently mumbling chants – no other sign betrays his holiness presence. A huge block of stone occupies a good portion of the temples yard. When it rains – it is said, then the rain God will appear on the stone, in the form of an enormous dragon. “ Earlier, just by lunchtime we visited a temple that was being restored – also a small monastery seemed to be very alive .The monks were surprisingly friendly and showed us around. A big sign said in Chinese and plain English that the red guards hit this temple very badly – everything was destroyed. Everything but a huge stone in the middle of the temple yard. This stone is called “ the cool stone of clear thought” Right, it must have been to survive the rage of the Cultural Revolution. One of the monks showed eagerly waving his hands that I should climb up and lay down. I did – maybe I will get enlightened. Hopefully. And yes – this stone was cool and it felt very nice to be in a horizontal position there. Wutai Shan is the highest peak in the north east of China – 3065m. Just t the foot of the mountain.. Or mountains are numerous temples built during different dynasties. It is a beautiful place still. Even if the commerce is taking over more and more. Must be hundreds of restaurants and hotels in this valley. But from a distance it still looks nice. From a distance that is. Witan are where Dalai Lama was a prisoner 100 years ago. The Chinese government kept him under tight surveillance. House arrest is the most adequate way of describing it. This area is definitely under heavy construction – old temples are being restored and new are being built. Monks and nuns are everywhere. I just wonder how many they are in total. It is obvious that this is a place that is being upgraded on every level. I wonder if the Chinese have big plans for this place. The next Dalai Lama is said to be chosen by the Chinese. “ Utai Shan 26.6. 1908 At 2pm a Tibetan came running and gesticulating eagerly that his holiness was about to receive me. And as I was shaving and just about to put some more proper clothes on, another monk, totally out of breath rushed in expressing his masters impatience. I also felt as much of impatience, but t was difficult to get dressed any quicker. …. In a small room, with entrance from the side sat Dalai Lama on a slightly elevated golden chair. The floor was covered with carpets…his silk dress was in imperial yellow, sleeves with blue cuffing. He wears no hat. My deep bow was returned with a slight nod. After receiving my light blue “hatak” he gave me a rather beautiful white one. After a short pause he asked if not His Majesty had sent him a message. With conspicuous interest hid waited for my answer to be translated. I told him that it was not expected that I should meet His Holiness. He asked me to inform H.M. that I had been received in Utai Sjan and he also asked me to present a gift - a beautiful white silk cloth with Tibetan lettering. When I asked if I also should tell H.M. something – to which he replied by asking my rank. After it had been translated that I was a Baron he asked me to stay one more day…” As we check out of the hotel – quite nice on the outside, but dirty and badly maintained the sun was shining. Good for us – we could put all our wet equipment to dry. A slight breeze indicated that it would be a rather pleasant day to explore the different temples. So we did and managed to avoid most of the numerous hawker stalls with all the usual junk. The town is crammed with Chinese tourists and pilgrims – mostly from Inner Mongolia’s rural areas. They are dressed in the traditional way and that is also a nice contrast to the regular Chinese tourist herds that have their pictures taken in every corner. Usually raising their left hand showing a “v” sign. The air is clear and cool, crispy I would say. The autumn is definitely here. Our last visit to a small temple where the 6th Dalai Lama is said to have spent 6 years meditating in a small and beautiful temple carved into to the rock. It took me 426 steps to get up there. And it is a tranquil place. But to spend six years here…nope our horses are waiting and we rush back to them and start our short riding leg for the day. Just eight kilometers through the town. The usual amazement is there when we ride to the north as the sun is setting and the evening breeze turns to a cold strong wind.

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