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  14.09.2007

FINALLY TURNING TO THE NORTH../ Taiyuan 6.9. 2007

One can really feel the tension in the air. People start to look more frequently at the big signboard…When, when? Until the announcement finally comes, from loudspeakers of poor quality. People rush to the gate – as it would be some kind of lottery. Which it is in a way.

The trains are almost always full in this country. You have to buy tickets in advance. Especially if you travel on an n overnight train. And if you want a bed to sleep in. It is funny how these anything – no matter what language. In this case I understand nothing except that some train is ready for boarding. But why are these people rushing like madmen?. What is the hurry if everybody has a pre booked seat or bed? - To find a place for the luggage, says Suyunbay – our guide. Who also is a bit excited. Do not know why, because we have our hard sleeper bed tickets. Still we all rush toward the train as if it would leave without us. On the other hand…you never know. Ten minutes later we have found our seats/beds – and there seem to be plenty of space for our luggage. I ask our guide what this rush was all about. He looks at me with a surprised expression on his face.. To him this is the normal way to act. We tried to book so-called soft sleepers – but on this route there were none. Not on the whole train. But these hard sleepers are in fact ok. Clean, not too small and quite comfortable. No doors to close so this a common experience with all the smell, noises. It is humid and warm, thank good that the windows are open. Fifteen minutes later the train starts to move. And the guard closes all the windows. Shit. This is going to be a hot experience. Kristian who has the top bed – three above each other has already fallen asleep. Lucky him. I try to read …until the lights go out. It is 10 pm, only 20 minutes after departure but every good boy and girl should go to sleep. Probably party instructions…or at least what the guard thinks. Dream further.. ? All kind of thoughts cross my mind…such as “what is boy like me doing in a place like this” No deep reflections over our existence.just the overwhelming feeling of being tired of all this. The incapability to take in more of China. I want this over and done with. I want to go back to the western hemisphere. I am tired of the people, the food, the polluted air, and the loess soil that is either dust or mud. I try to think of the smiles and air realize that I am tired of them too… I wake up to a strange sound. Like somebody is kicking something. Also there is a reflection of light. And yes. The guy on the other top bed is kicking the fan..That seems to work on and off. Mostly off. The kick results in turning it on – combined with a spark. But then after ten seconds. It stops. So the guy kicks again. Same result. It is still hot and it would be great if the fan would function properly. This continues over and over again, very monotonous action…so I manage to fall asleep again. In the morning t is much cooler and I realize that we are on a much higher elevation. Nice. And only little over one hour to Taiyuan – the capital of Shanxi province. Again a very polluted city with a few million inhabitants. This is where our horses are waiting for us. They were transported by truck a few days earlier. Why? Because this is what Mannerheim also did 100 years ago. The knowledge that we are about to enter the final part of our expedition makes me feel good. And also the fact that it is September and the weather is slowly getting cooler. . I grab the towel from the pillow and jump down from my bed and heading to the toilet. Almost no queue outside the door. That was a pleasant surprise…the guard passes by. He looks at me as I try to say good morning. Hen he tears the towel from me with an angry look on his face. And walks away. Towels seems to something of “ look, don’t touch” here in China…

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