AMAZING GRACE IN A CHINESE PLACE.. / Hua Shan / 1.9. 2007

He is about sixty years old, short but seems to be in good shape. He carries his load on a 1,5 meter long stick – the weight evenly distributed. No hands. Then he puts his flute to his mouth and starts to play. Lifts his left foot to knee… All this on a very narrow cliff… half meter of solid rock on each side – otherwise a free fall of many hundred meters..

It looks scary – the cable cars go straight up. Almost as far as the eye can see, just to disappear into the clods high, high up. Now, I am quite used to different kind of cable cars in the Alps. But this is something different. The free hanging section is really long and almost vertical. I am not sure of this. Have to check who the manufacturer is. If it is a local brand…then no thanks. I could of course go up along the “soldiers path” – but that takes about four hours. Over 1500 steps and the vertical drop is the same 1500…. in meters. And the stairs are in many parts carved right out in the mountain. Needless to say that it is steep. Thank god it is not raining. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ----------------- “ Nan Feng Temple / 17.5. 1908 … It is impossible not to throw an admiring look at this group of mountains when riding by. At the top there are many Taoist temples that are visited by thousands of pilgrims every year. So, I do not want to leave this area without taking a closer look at this holy site. Carriers are at disposal. This seems to be a good source of extra income for the locals. In fact, this is a rather organized business - lot of small baskets is piled up. Filled with necessities such as blankets, clothes, different instruments, cartridges, and food. Eve4n if the baskets are small they seem to fit quite a lot of necessary equipment. The local people declare, in unison that the total distance is 70 li (approx. 40 km) – and very strenuous and at places of breakneck character To be confident that this whole endeavor can be made in one day I decode to hire a carrier stool, carried by two tiny 20-year-old Chinese boys. The construction is simple – a Chinese chair tied to two planks. I ask Lukanin if he wants to join me on foot. He declines the offer, arguing that he has never traveled any longer distances by foot. It is very characteristic for Russians to love resting and suppress natural curiosity – if physical effort is required. And also Shy seems to be delighted for being able to pass…” ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------ “ Doppelmeyer” is the manufacturer of the cable car – a well-known brand for me at least. So, I decide to trust them and foremost the Chinese maintenance crew. In we go – Anton, and we, that is Kristian, Max. “ Why do you have such a tight grip on the seat. “ Asks max with a smile. Well it just feels slightly more secure. But I do not like this and it is with great effort that I manage to even try to enjoy the scenery. Ten minutes later we are at the upper station and I am happy to be on solid ground again. Maybe I should walk down. That would take less than two hours. Hmm.. This mountain is fantastic – so are the views. This is one of those classical Chinese mountain sceneries. Steep and Narrow Mountain, partly veiled in clouds with dots of sunshine coming through. A temple built on top of an extremely narrow cliff. Stairs are everywhere – some cut into the rock others made of concrete, some in use and some not. Some have railings of steel poles, others are lined with chains. But everywhere and allover are locks to be found. Thousands of padlocks attached to everything possible. This is a must for the Chinese who come here. I think it is a way for couples to verify their union. A red piece of cloth is attached to every padlock. If you forgot your lock – no worries there are dozens of small stalls up here that sell them to very elevated prices ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ----------------- “ Nan Feng Temple / 17.5. 1908 It took us ten hours to get to the top – so the distance could not have been 70 li. My estimate is between 30 and 34. …At some places it is very steep and here and there ione can see small places of worship, stone tablets – all carved into the rock. In the temples you are confronted with scary figures with rolling eyes, swords and fierce looks in other calm and meditating Buddha statues are to bee found. The contrast to the dramatic surrounding nature is stunning. The stairs seems to continue endlessly higher up. Winding and steep but not too dangerous anyhow. The scenery is wonderful… The most prominent temple is Nan Feng – built under the Tang Dynasty and Pei Feng, Zung Feng, Xi feng and Nan Chang Feng – to reach the last one has to climb on rotten bridge. Nan Feng has a few well-decorated guest rooms – meant for those who can afford it. The host is a surprisingly proper priest. Among much Chinese wisdoms, I did spot verses in Swedish praising the Lord - signed by 3 ladies and 2 gentlemen. The view is about the widest possible. “ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ --------------- For those who look for a room with a view – this is the place. Actually there are two options. One not so far from the cable car station and the other is quite high up and it requires a lot of climbing. But the view is something else. It is also amazing with all these stalls, restaurants, shops etc.. Everything has to be carried up here. So no wonder that the prices are sky high. At east according to Chinese standards. After spending four hours here climbing most of the time up, up, up – it is time to go back down. So, should a walk along the “ soldiers trail” all the way down. . Or should I take the cable car..? This “ soldiers trail” is not the old one that leads all the way to the village. It newer one and the distance is much shorter. Only 1500 steps instead of over 2000. Mannerheim took the longer one – but then again, two Chinese carried him. Then it struck me… Max and Anton. Two healthy young guys surely in need of extra exercise… But suddenly they had disappeared. I waited a while. Kristian took the cable car already…so; I waited for my two carriers. After 20 minutes gave up and strolled to the ticket office and bought and ticket. The journey down was not so bad as expected and around 5.30 pm I was down at the base station. Kristian was there, but the boys were nowhere to be found. Then I heard a beep from my mobile phone - a txt message. “ We took the Soldiers Trail…see you in some hours down art the base station..”

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