SMALL TOWELS AND MUDDY RIVERS../ Luoyang / 31.8. 2007

A lot of neon lights. This is like a Luna park. Wonder where the hotel is…. The small Chinese car with blinking hazard lights turns left up a steep road towards the mountain. The hotel is small, very clean – for being a Chinese enterprise. A small bargaining session and we decide to stay. It is still raining.

The Terracotta Army is quite something. Maybe it is better to forget the reasons why it exists in the first place and just enjoy the skills of all the 700.000 individuals who were involved in the construction - that took over 35 years finalize. Our horses and crew were nearby – so we managed to get going on that same evening. Our direction was to the east and the city of Weinan – then toward the ancient capital Lou yang. My son Max and his photographer friend Anton joined us in Xian. I had no idea what their expectations were – but something out of the ordinary it would be. Interesting...remains to be seen. It is hard to find alternative routes. All the time, when asking about the way…you get more or less the same answer – along the main road is the “only” way. But after a few typical Chinese negotiations we are on a slightly smaller and longer road. Quite good for the horses too We are greeted with smiles and same look of amazement or then just surprise. Neither these people nor their villages differ much from those 4000 km to the west. Fewer Mosques and less people with white caps…but over all the same atmosphere. Max and Anton seemed to enjoy this parade, I think – and it is quite nice to ride through a little village. The perspective from the horseback is rather pleasant, with a road almost paved with smiles ? - well not really…. but a bit like a parade anyway. We could not avoid the city center of Weinan – or ” midtown “ as the ever so informative signs in English stated. To ride through a city with about 400.000 people is not an easy task. The traffic is immense and quite scary for both horse and rider. But 40 minutes later we were at the eastern outskirts and again (almost desperately..) searching for a campsite. The next day was quite similar - small villages, astonished faces. Lot of complications with simple matters - left or right, east or north, what is the distance and how long does it take to get there. It could be amusing to just “ collect” the variety of information and answers that one gets…to questions not asked, And continue to be surprised at the absence of accurate information. But we did find ourselves in a fairly good camping spot at the end of the day. Very early next morning I did wake up to the sound of raindrops falling – just small and tiny ones. Nothing to worry about…I thought. Maybe I should get up and make a ditch, put the saddles under the truck… Ten minutes later I decided to challenge the mosquitoes and do so. Still not raining so much so no ditch digging. Big mistake - one hour later we were totally wet. The rain was pouring down. And two hours later our stuff (and we) were floating in something that reminded me of porridge made of mud. The spices were the mosquitoes. The rain continued for that whole day and part of the next. We got soaked and covered with red dots – a nice greeting from the local mosquitoes. So when we arrived that evening to the foot of the famous Huashan Mountains – I thought that our hard times were over for now. Well – the hotel rooms were ok. . But no hot water, no towels, no soap and no air cond. All this was supposed to be included, according to the guy who convinced us to check in to this hotel. But it was very late and we all needed some sleep, the good thing was that it was a clean place – a rare sight here. I went down to the “reception” to check for some towels, soap. Yes they had towels – and soap too – but you had to pay extra for that. Nope said I - we were promised a hotel room with amenities…ok, ok. So I did get some towels. The size was that of a large stamp! It had to do since there was nothing else on offer. Next morning when we checked out the sour looking Chinese lady presented a bill with extra charge for towels, soap etc.’ not going to pay said I. Yes you are, said she. No, said I and “Yes” said she. This way we continued for a while. Finally I paid the originally agreed sum and was about to join the others in the truck. The little Chinese woman rushed out and grabbed hold of the big truck. Funny sight - but we could not move. An hour later we were on our way. Before that we all went to the police station. Lot a talk and talk. Finally the local police chief gave his verdict “ You have to pay for the towels since you used them” said he! Ok said I – if that is the final result of the Chinese jury then may it be…. I did stand up and was on my way out. Turned around and asked for his name and number. A surprised look on his face. He asked me to sit down for a while. He made a few calls and did write something on paper. The little Chinese woman went in and out. He talked with her and finally he said. You don’t have to pay for the towels… This is China.

All news