RING OUT THE OLD , BANG IN THE NEW.. / Xian / 21.8. 2007

“According to the historical records carved in the stone tablets which are still preserved in it, the mosque was set up in 742 AD during the Tang Dynasty. So it has already had a history of over 1,250 years. The mosque was restored in the Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing Dynasties. Especially after the founding of New China, and owing to the correct religious policies for the minority nationalities by the Communist Party and Peoples Government, the authorities concerned allocates special funds for the renovations of the mosque every year. So that, the mosque has gradually become such a large and brilliant complex of the historical architecture….”

Thank you, thank you – it is nice that the party apparatus knows what to do. This is a quote from a tiny booklet that is included in the ticket price for entering the great mosque. It is a beautiful place with a serene atmosphere. And it is in the middle of the city. Lots of visitors mixed with local Muslims who use this shrine for the same purpose as they have been doing for over 1000 years. Over 500 worshippers COM e here every day and on Fridays there can be as many as 2000. Inside the main praying hall the walls are covered with the entire Koran carved on wooden boards mostly in Arabic - but some sequences are in Chinese. For same unknown reason this place was spared from damage during Mao’s “mistake” in the late sixties. The architecture is pure Chinese. The quarters around the mosque a mixture of old and not so old – but it has definitely a feel of having been here for long. Xian is the first major city, since Kashgar that feels like it has a history. That feels nice. The huge Ming Dynasty walls give a robust historical frame to the heart of this city very much in developing. Just outside the Muslim quarters is the Drum Tower - also from the Ming Dynasty. And few hundred meters to the east is the slightly larger Bell Tower. This tower must be the center point of Xian. There is a constant sound from traffic. Or no, not just the traffic… it is also the big screen. Commercials, and commercials. Cars going round the Bell Tower. A great building and one of the few old ones In this very old city. The city walls are illuminated after sunset and the signal for the sun setting was the sound of a huge drum inside the tower. The signal to verify that that the sun had raised came from the Bell Tower. Toady, the sound from both towers is almost constant - for a few Yuan one can bang a drum or a bell. So the original functions are lost – even if that could be something that the local authorities could re-consider – due to the heavy pollution it is often quite difficult know if the sun has risen… The walls do not look like a Disney production. Even if there are not many old stones on the wall itself. But the towers are still standing –and a closer look verifies that it is the real thing…unless… This is China. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ -------------- “ Sian /28.4. 1908 A large suburb of Sian has to be passed before we reach the massive city walls of the city. Holes in the wall are for cannons – the entrance or entrances here are actually three big gates, with huge arches. My staff has prepared rather spacious but not so comfortable living quarters. Some very welcomed letters and bundle of newspapers from Peking – did await my arrival. Also, an invitation from Herr E. A. Schaumlöffel, the soon-to –leave director of the post office that had been reorganized according to European model. In his, or rather in his successors, Mr. Manners nice apartment I did a very pleasant evening with these gentlemen and three Franciscans……It seems like Sian, with its very old link to the coast in the east is much more ready for reforms. Specially regarding the schools… “ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------ The modern Xian is growing fast – with its own techno polis etc. Huge building constructions are going on everywhere.. Five start hotels, housing, and shopping malls. It looks like to a great extent like any other big city in China. With the exception that its history is present. Not even a Chinese pragmatic approach to history and buildings has been able to erase the traces from a city that was the imperial capital for over 1000 years. And it is ironical that a brutal tyrant that died over 2000 years ago, who built a whole terracotta army to protect his ruthless soul - is one of the reasons for the revitalization of this cradle of Chinese culture.

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