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31.07.2007
It was a bit like looking at a movie that was taking place many years ago. The
women were working hard –and they also got help from the men every now and then.
Everybody seemed to be in good spirits, which felt a little absurd
Xiahe is the name of the town that is adjoining Labrang. A not so clean town
with basically one big main street. Interesting though, - because of the cultural
mix and also hotpot of old and new.
Where Xiahe ends Labrang begins.
Labrang is also called “little Lhasa” with many thousand monks ands nuns.
This place was totally destroyed by the red guards during the Cultural Revolution.
– As is the case with most Tibetan monasteries. Most of them are rebuilt or are
being in the process of doing so.
To the Tibetan minority the monastery is the center point of their culture.
Without them their identity would melt in to the majority Han culture within
a generation.
The Chinese ways is very subtle- give a little then take more back. Slowly, slowly
these minority cultures will nothing but a well controlled and staged tourist
attraction.
The Chinese Muslims – Huis as they are called probably know this …because they
are Chinese and that is why they stick much more to their way of life. And they
are looked upon with suspicion and dislike by the Hans and also by the other
minorities. And the Huis do not have much of respect for Tibetans. It is boiling
under the lid.
When we arrived it was with a certain relief and of course sadness. We had buried
a friend and companion. Now this might maybe sound a bit too emotional but
these horse become more than just means of transportation.
This is to put it mildly.
It was quite a lot of hassle to get Motor buried. First of all we were not sure how
the villagers would react. Our driver said that they will surely eat the horse –
even if he is put under ground…then they will dig him up and take everything that
is useable.
This it probably what the Han Chinese would do – but this was Tibetan country
and animals are in many ways sacred.
After some researching and contact with the local police the picture started to
clear up.
“Jimba” a Tibetan policeman with good command of the English language helped
us a lot. This former monk was this town’s main man for international relations –
due to his good English.
After some consultations with the villages local party boss we decided to let the
villagers to earn some money by digging the grave.
Originally our plan was to hire a bulldozer to do the job. Bt we were convinced
that all things considered it was better to do this with manpower. Or to be more
accurate womanpower.
Here, as elsewhere in China women do most of the work.
So, after a while a bunch of people turned up with spades – men, women,
children and the women started to dig.
To dig a grave for a big horse is not that easy – it has to be at least two meters
deep and wide…and four meters long.
The hill that was chosen for this is a good spot –but the sand soil is not that soft.
So, it was quite a job but a few hours later the job was done and it was time to
him to his final resting place.
The distance was not that long but still it required an effort. This operation was
also done with manpower and a three-wheel tractor – plus a lot of rope. Not a nice
sight or job…but it had to be done.
The vehicle huffed and puffed up the hill – at some stages a new path had to be
built. No worries – with all these people and spades that happened with a
surprising efficiency. It was a bit like looking at a movie that was taking place
many years ago. The women were working hard –and they also got help from the
men every now and then. Everybody seemed to be in good spirits, which felt a
little absurd – but it was not their family member who passed away and life must
go on.
Both Kristian and I initiated the covering operation and even if that is much
easier, it was still hard work to do that. But it felt important
Motors final resting place is on hill over looking the valley – a valley that is very
beautiful. Just some 20 kilometers from Labrang.
So if you are on your way to visit the monastery stop just before the village by
the road 12 kilometers from road # 213 in the direction of Labrang. On the right
side of the road, climb up some 100 meters and above the square mud wall
construction is a hill with a gravestone..And an inscription in four languages;
Swedish, Tibetan, Chinese and English – “ Motor, 18.7. 2007 - A true companion
and friend, stumbled in the darkness on a human error – On his way home”
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