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26.07.2007
“…But To-ni, I think it is a reasonable price…”
My jaws dropped, this was not a reasonable price at all. It was Thursday
and a rainy one and no tourists in sight – just the boat keepers, at least
thirty of them.
“Vincent” is his English name. He is twenty-three years old and studies
economics at the University of Lanzhou. His English is not good, maybe
acceptable considering the difficulty in getting a good English-speaking
guide. French is his first foreign language he said. Hmm…I wonder. On the
other hand, my French is a bit rusty – to put it mildly. So I stick to English
and he to his Chinglish. I also realize I am about to get a headache from
the start…this is China.
Where do they get their English names? And “Vincent”. . He did not look
like a Vincent at all- whatever a Vincent might look like…
We left Lanzhou in two Taxis and it was pouring down – a bit hard to
negotiate a price with this guy for the 70 km trip, but we managed finally to
get to worn down VW Santanas. VW must have made millions of them
here in China and they must have made millions on them. VW Santana
has not been produced in Europe since 1980s
Our Vincent was sent to us a few days earlier – to replace Ayken who had to
go back to Urumqi for three weeks to teach in his College. Right from the
start both Kristian and I were suspicious – not just because of previous
experiences with so-called guides but because this guy seemed to be in his
own world and not always paying attention.
He said to start with that his “contract” was only for four days. Wondered
why they send somebody for such a short time.. And in four days he cannot
do so much damage…is what we thought.
720 RMB for a few ours boat trip up the river…. I said that the maximum we
would pay is 400. Our guide started to laugh…” what a ridiculous offer “ he
said, with the boat keeper nodding agreeing.
On who’s side was this guy? I got angry and asked him right on the spot.
How could he act this way?
- “ Because these people should get their share of foreign tourists too..” –
was his answer. My jaws almost hit my knees…
How could he know what was fair - he had never been here before. And for
him 720 RMB is a fortune.
Fifteen minutes later we were on our way to the famous Binglisi Buddha
caves by the Yellow River in a speedboat. First we crossed the beautiful
reservoir. It was nice to be in a boat again. To feel that element was a bit
like being somewhere far away..
The clear turquoise color of the man made lake turned into light brown
once we came to the river. This beige color is the reason for its name – The
Yellow River.
Beautiful scenery and a very nice boat ride along this ever-bending river.
The mountains on the side grew taller and taller; also more dramatic the
closer we got to the monastery.
The setting for this monastery is truly beautiful. It is not difficult to
understand why this place was chosen 1600 years ago. The sculptures
carved into to the rocks by men hanging from ropes must have been a
dramatic sight. Luckily this place – due to its remoteness was spared from
excesses initiated by Mao in the late sixties.
The giant 27m high statue of Maitreaya, future Buddha is impressive
because of its size – but he feels somehow pale and peeled off – which he
in fact is. Only a small part of the head has fragments of the layer that
once must have covered him.
The setting and the light cast on these canyons could not have been
better.
It was time to head back.
Our horses seemed to be in a fairly good shape -mosquito bitten all over
but anyway.
The efforts to get a hoove smith in this area seemed to be remote, but we
did managed to find someone not so far away – only problem that he was
in opposite direction to where we were heading.
Again we had to fix a transport for the horses. This had to be done
because they al needed new shoes. But to find a truck was not easy with
this guy as the helping hand…and our connection to the locals. Does this
sound unfair to our Vincent? – In fact this is a very mild description. And
absolutely fair.
Many hassles later we had managed to fix a truck and we were on our way.
Only problem was that the direction seemed strange. This could not be
checked with Vincent because his time with us was up – he was heading
back to Lanzhou. He assured that he had briefed the truck driver were to
go. Everything had been double
Checked….with maps etc.
Still, after a one-hour drive we realized that shit had almost hit the fan.
Wrong road. The driver had no idea of where we were going. He wanted
more money. This is China.
Six hours later we reached the City of Linxia – a trip that should have
taken us a fraction if that. Luckily Vincent was somewhere in Lanzhou – and
this was Friday the 13th.
All news
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