TOWARDS THE BIRTHPLACE OF KUBLAI KHAN../ Jiuquan County / 25.6 2007

We found a nice place to camp in a small village east of town, with a lot of green grass, water and bunch very curious farmers. All with same expression on their faces…..” what are they doing here?

We rejoined our horses after our detour to Dunhuang. They had spent three well- deserved resting days in Jiayuquan. The so-called stable was nothing but a dirty and hot back yard of a private house. But since there are not natural service points for horses anymore along the Silk Road.one had to be greatful for what was possible. On the other hand this house was located just by the Jiayuquan pass and the truly impressive fortress - built in the 14th century during the hey days of the Ming dynasty. It stands between Horses Mane Mountains (Ma zong Shan in Chinese) in the north and the snow covered peaks of Qilian Mountains to the south. To the east is China and to the west the almost endless desert. I wonder if our horses realize the significance of this location. Not only due to its historical importance but because this marks the end over long stretches of desert land for them… ? At least one would think that the closeness to the fort should be felt. They seemed pleased to see us - most likely because they knew that soon we would be on the move again and that is better than standing in a dusty back yard under the hot sun. Outside the fortress there was a god place for them to graze. Probably not a legal one, but anyway - areas that a westerner would consider a good spot for grazing is looked upon with great suspicion by the Chinese…” that is a park…or “ it is private” Here are lot of beautiful parks in China – but not that many. This lot was very suitable in our opinion. Located conveniently close to the fortress entrance. So we took a closer look. This fort is a good example of a successful restoration – not over done at all. The walls are impressive – over 10 meters high and almost 750 meters in perimeter - pavilioned watchtowers, inner and outer ramparts and bowmen’s turrets. A defensive ditch surrounds everything. The commander’s residence is a nicely done exhibition with human size wax figures and all and it gives you a good idea of things worked. He design of this building complex was very carefully designed and one can easily realize how difficult it must have been to invade this place with all its angles and gates. ------------------- “ Djia- yu – quan / 29.11. 1907 ….. still a few kilometers more and we were riding through the mighty gate to “Kouli” (Kau-li = the inner of China in Chinese) outside this stands a huge stone with the inscription that this is the first closed gate to China. The wall that covers a distance of 45 km from north to south is an insignificant mud wall with few watchtowers. Nothing of this can by any means serve as a defense from enemies. Not even in the imagination of the Chinese. The wall closer to the fortress is made of proper tiles and a bit higher. The gate to the fortress is 34 feet wide arch and after two more arches we are inside the fortress which is filled with mud huts…in a minute and half we have passed through and few kilometers furthermore we arrive to one of the Sarajs (Caravanserai) The Chinese say that” the feeling of happiness fulfils the traveler if he comes from the West “ and that “ he cries abundant amounts of tears if he is forced to go in the opposite direction”…..” ---------------------------------------- Well, cannot but agree – we decided to skip to take a look at newly built parts of the Great Wall 8 km north of the town and continued towards the neighbor town of Jiuquan. The names of these to cities are confusingly similar to pronounce. Both are industrial towns with strong connection to the oil industry. In fact the first oil field in China was discovered nearby in 1931. It is still in operation but is said to be on the verge to dry out. Jiuquan seems to be a quite nice city compared with Jiayuquan - it’s was earlier called Su Chow and has a feeling of history with some small parts of the old city wall and old gates and pagodas. He streets are not that wide and lined with poplars. This in sharp contrast to the new parts that are the usual modern Chinese design with imposing high-rise buildings of steel and glass. We found a nice place to camp in a small village east of town, with a lot of green grass, water and bunch very curious farmers. All with same expression on their faces…..” what are they doing here? And with horses! It seems like almost every one gathers around our tents. Friendly and very curious. They take a break in their work on the was wheat fields just to come and take a look. Mostly women, their nose and mouth covered with a white cloth to protect from dust and sand. The wind her is so unpredictable. The previous night was spent a at nice little farm owned by a ever smiling and kind couple – more or less a heaven for our horses with lot grass to eat – so they were in good shape for the over 100 kilometer leg to our next point to the east - Zhangye. That city is supposed to be the birthplace of Kublai Khan and it hosts the largest reclining indoor Buddha in China.

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