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17.06.2007
Brick after brick…after brick. The two young men work with a good speed and
systematically too. The wooden frame is not big - four bricks at a time can be
made. These two young Mongols use sand water and something that vaguely
reminds me of cement. The sand is plentiful and ever so available here.
The pulp is shoveled into to the mode and after that spread out to dry in the sun.
They dry very quickly and are ready to use within hours – so immense is the heat
from the sun.
It s a new house that is taking place and the whole family is involved.
These two young men look like any young guys of their age – sneakers a Nike
cap, jeans. Their father is more traditionally clothed with the typical Muslim hat on
his head.
It was in their spare room that we did spend the night. This s checkpoint on the
road between Mori and Barköl is also a resting place for the truck drivers – a small
shop, a space that they call restaurant. Close by is a farm. The police from the
checkpoint also share this guest room. Everybody is very kind and helpful. And
curious. Photos has to taken of us with them etc
It is very nice with this kind of natural hospitality - it is quite typical for these,
traditionally nomad people. A by passing stranger is always welcome to share
some tea, bread and if needed a place to sleep.
But one cannot avoid to think that these so called minority cultures in China are a
vanishing breed. In the name of development all these old traditions give way
for a sinofied New China. That is clearly visible in the cities. Even in smaller
towns.
When the infrastructure of new roads, telecommunications are being built – then
people from the east are moving in. And after some time these locals are
minorities not only in China but also in their own surroundings.
Progress?
After a few days of riding we did reach Barköl – or Balikun. In Chinese. This is still
a town with Kazak majority. It is situated beautifully between the snow capped
mountains and the Barköl lake. He town itself is without any charm. Same straight
streets, lined with tiled covered charm-less buildings.
The water in this lake is salty – and as many similar lakes in this part of the world
it is shrinking fast. The size is today about 100 sq km, and that this one fourth of
what it was hundred years ago. Depth today is maximum one meter.
On the northern side there is a lot of chemical factories and further away oilfields.
If the wind is from the north, then smell is quite unpleasant.
This area still has pastures with horses and other livestock.
After letting our horses rest for a few days we continue eastbound -, towards
the Tien Shan Pass.
Our local guide takes us up towards the mountains – it turns out that he is not so
sure of the route – our brief was that it should be good for the horses.
It was not. Very stony and difficult. Soon we had to give up and take the main
road. Boring but safer for the horses and less stressful for us.
The route east led us through village after village along this newly built road.
After 85 kilometers we reached the cross roads - where the old road became
visible, the road that would take us up to the Tien Shan Pass.
This was again a part of the old Silk Road network. And not only so, it was also an
important link for the Hami Kingdom. This winding road was used for centuries as
the route between the Kings summer and winter residence. The summers were
spent on this northern side due to the cooler climate and still today this area is
crowded with people from Hami and Turfan during the summer due to the same
reasons.
Our camp was set up on a beautiful spot at the foot of the mountains. Lot of fresh
grass and two small rivers. Very picturesque.
The next morning we headed for the pass. I decided to walk as much as possible
because Gustavs back still needed to recover.
So, up we went – the air was fresh and it was overcast. Nice.
Again almost magical forests in more or less natural condition. Really good
growing ground for spruce. Steep it was too. Gustav had to stop every now and
then. So did I….but after one hour and ten minutes we were at the top. Our
guide’s estimation was three hours - but that would have been along the
serpentine road.
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“THE TEMPLE AT THE TEN SHAN PASS / 22.10. 1907 /
Yesterdays strong had turned into full storm – the air was filled with snow and
sand.
The most difficult part on the way up to the pass was ahead of us. 1,5 m deep
snowdrifts were in our way in almost every turn. Luckily I managed to convince
with nice words and some money two opium smoking Chinese postal workers to
help us. Armed with very primitive shovels they did their best.
Our horses had a very hard time to get through the snow and they were very
exhausted…, as our situation looked more and more desperate three Chinese
turned up. Hey were going in the opposite direction. With a mixture of threats and
bribe these three men from Hami helped us with clearing the road from snow…
after 12 hours we finally reached the top and the temple that was there.
This temple was built 25 years ago. Close by is a big Stone plate with inscriptions
from the Tang dynasty. All eight of us tried to raise this big stone, but we did not
even manage to turn it over. “
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The weather was still very nice and the view from this pass is astonishing – the
valley to the north looks green and lush with a big beige area with mighty sand
dunes in the centre. Behind that, a mountain ridge. The lake is also visible and so
are the fuming factories too.. Both to the west and the east there are snowcapped
mountains. Could be worse.
The temple - originally built over 1000 years ago, has been rebuilt several times.
In fact, t is an ongoing process. It is the only temple built on the 2000km long
Tien Shan Mountain range It is in very good condition and the bricks look quite
new. Old or new – in the country it is very relative. What is definitely old is a big
stone – with inscriptions from the Tang Dynasty. It stands in its own space just by
the temple itself.
As we are about to enter the main building a guard suddenly shows up. He looks
like Mao’s little brother. Same expression on his face and same outfit as Mao. He
is about sixty years old and it is obvious that he takes his job very seriously.
Wonder if he was a Red Guard in his youth. After a while he softens up a bit. He
even smiles. But no photos.
After little more than an hour we continue – we still have 54 km before we
reach the city of Hami. The road down is very quite steep – so, after four
kilometers I decided to walk. Easier for both us, and for the horses. He local guide
did not look so happy though
After a four hour walk we finally reached the village of Nankachou by the foot of
the mountain - Hami was still over 30 km away on the other side of the desert.
Time to take a break and set up the camp. And just then a heavy wind turned up
from nowhere. It looked like we would soon be hit by a storm.
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