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09.06.2007
This is Chinese Disney World – and I am suddenly a tourist. After two
month of hardly seeing anything but locals who stare at you as the main
attraction of the week
Or to be more adequate, the main attraction of the year.it some feels
like a relief to be somewhere where foreigners as fairly common. At the
same time it is a bit annoying to be served everything in a Chinese Disney
manner – line up there, buy ticket, buy souvenirs. Look at artifacts in that
are more or less badly made copies of the real thing. Be amazed. Take
pictures. Buy souvenirs… After ten minutes the sense of relief is quickly
disappearing
Never satisfied?.. Ok,.. Should not complain.
Turpan, or Tulufan is the largest oasis in this part of the Gobi desert – it is
located in a depression, some 80 meters below sea level. The town is
famed for its grape products, mostly seedless white raisins, but there is
wine production as well. With some decent red wines even though mostly
sweet wines are produced.
The nearby Moon Lake is even further below sea level – 154 meters and
that is the second lowest point in the world after the Dead Sea.
The surface of the lake is covered with a layer of salt – Glauber salt,
that “super delicious” diuretic stuff is manufactured here, and that
employs many thousand people. A lot of them were sent here from the
east during the Cultural Revolution
(That infamous period that now is just described as one mistake by Mao…
what an under statement) and they still live here.
We arrived here late last night. You could still feel the reflecting heat
from the ground, the buildings. Still, the really hot period is to come.
Our horses are not allowed to enter this area at all – but they also
deserve a rest at a farm far away from this hot pot.
We have decided to take a look at some of the main attractions such as
the ancient city of Jiaohe (or Yarkhoto), the 18th century mosque Emin
Minaret, the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha caves…
Our plan was to start with the caves. Hey are situated 50 km outside the
town, just by the flaming Mountains. These Mountains are, as one can
guess not a particularly cool place. But this excursion stops before it
started. He most interesting caves are closed A pile of bribing money would
of course open the them for us, but since our guides car does not have
air-conditioning, windows can not be opened. We decided to check out the
ancient city.
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Turfan / 24.9. 1907
“ Today I made an excursion to Jar Choto. The ruins are all too well
described by others. So, I will not waste my time to the same thing. Must
say – I did expect something grander like interesting architecture and
paintings. But these clay buildings battered by heavy winds and occasional
rain during hundreds of years are a bit of a disappointment. The paintings
in the Buddhist temple are in extremely bad condition. I was about to cut
lose 3 Buddha paintings, but after consideration a decided not to. May
some more qualified collector do that. In one vault all of the Buddha
figures have been decapitated - the work of the Chinese said my Sart
guide. That is not true at all – this is the work of the Sarts themselves.”
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Somehow it is not difficult to agree with Mannerheim – even if he maybe is
a bit too harsh in his judgment. These Tang dynasty remains were brought
under the protection of the state in 1961. A lot of restoration work has
been done and that is a constantly ongoing process. I am not so sure of
the quality though..
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