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02.06.2007
China is changing. Even these remote parts. It feels strange to see so much newly
raised barbed wire out here. Large steppe areas that just months ago were accessible
for everyone. Not so anymore
These shepherds can now lease large land-areas for a fee. For this fee they also
get poles, barbed wire...
It is a sad sight. And it complicates a little bit our journey. Suddenly we had to
make long detours. But the main problem in my opinion is hat it changes these
pastures dramatically. So, lucky us who still have had the chance to experience
some of this vast wild freedom. Only thing that keeps an eye on us are four big
eagles circulating above our heads…and of course the Chinese armed forces.
I think they know exactly where we are all the time.
We did pass a large swan lake area – but did not see any swans.
Well, I prefer the eagles anyway. And the large herds of horses. Not to mention
the Yaks.
Never seen so many. They remind me slightly of buffalos.
It is quite a sight when many hundreds of them cross a big river – guided by some
Mongol Shepard’s – one can spot their Yurts (or Gers) here and there.
It is late spring and they are moving from their winter dwellings in places like
Bayanbulak.
That city looked like a western town – Chinese version.. Windy with a lot of
basically ugly buildings with nicer facades. One big street – the main street….
and then some smaller ones.
On the edge of the town is a super large horse stadium. The locals told us that it
is being used once a year for an annual Mongol gathering.
It looked strange – like it would be totally out of place and under construction.
Most likely it is an important statement from the authorities side – this is a very
important city for the Mongol culture. Small, yes – but of importance.
Our initial plan was to head to the south east – along the Kaidu River. But after
consulting the local police we were assured that hat was a very bad idea.
Impossible to get any local guide who knows that area. He said it is very
dangerous – nobody goes there. Nobody travels along the river.
But…. We were explicitly told that road number 318 – the other possibility
towards Karashär is strictly forbidden for foreigners. Military secrets on that road.
He city of Balangutay hosts a very large arms depot.
Forbidden to even pass for a few foreigners on horseback, but very allowed for
1,3 billion Chinese.
So we had to do this in secrecy…sad the police.
Horses and humans on the truck and off we went.
The road was a disaster but six hours later we reached the outskirts of Karashär.
Luckily we all fell asleep when we passed Balangutay. Promise
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