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22.05.2007
Suddenly there were 3 motorbikes – out in this wilderness. Two young boys
on all three. With plastic bags filled with something.
How on earth have they made their way here? And why?
By pertinence and determination they have made this very dangerous
journey on these small bikes.
Morels, local morels were the answer. Very valuable – not for preparing
food.
These delicious mushrooms are not used for cooking but as a vital part of
Chinese medicine. Over 1000 RMB/ kilo…and that is a lot of money
The day was fine again. Sunshine and no wind. – Three kilometers along a
broken road. This road was used as a service road for forestry. Only that
Mother Nature had now decided that there should be a break in that.
This spruce forest is truly grand and beautiful to look at as we proceed
upward.
Easy and nice start – until Pat nods top the left. Right up a very steep
grass-covered slope. It looks very difficult. Especially for Motor, he ha big
problems in narrow and sharp turns. No mercy here and we all make it. But
for Motor and Kristian it was close. But this is just a beginning – our route
takes us through a dangerous fairyland that well could be inhabited by
trolls…. and fairies.
No time gets carried away. The rider has also to be aware all the time.
This forest is in a natural condition – and very beautiful. The trees are
enormous. Never seen so big spruce. All the time the sound of the river is
there. Sometimes it is visible and at other times present just by it’s mighty
roars.
We climb and climb…through a terrain that seems impossible. But here we
go.
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CHAPCHAU SU 24.5. 1907
“…The roads, if it is at all adequate to use this expression are filled with
enormous stones and extremely steep – at some part so difficult that
heavier load on the horses would make it impossible to go forward. The
most severe obstacle is the river with their strong current and masses of
cold water later in the day that it is very dangerous. During one whole
month this area is totally isolated because of this..”
-------
After over six hours hard work (mostly for the horses) we finally reach the
upper plateau. It is just at the tree line. A beautiful pasture at the
elevation of 2700 m.
A few cottages here and there. But no people in sight – the Mongols have
not yet arrived with their livestock. This area is their summer dwelling – but
the grass is not high enough yet. Quite a place for a summer cottage –
surrounded high snow capped peaks, fresh air lot of green pastures, rivers
etc…. but not for me.
After an hour-long break we continue - we have to it is getting late and
when the sun sets this becomes slightly more hostile territory.
We still have a long climb before we reach the red mountain pass at 3500
m.
It looks quite close.. but..
One big problem becomes evident – our crew has forgotten to bring the
grains for the horses. They only have grass to feed on. That is not enough
fuel for them.
But, there is nothing we can do but to go on. Slowly, and with breaks. And
with l more walking from our part.
Anyway we all enjoy this tremendously. T feels like a true privilege to be
here.
Approximately one hour before sunset we finally reach the top of the pass.
View is stunning and we stop for a short while.
Pat suggests that we should camp here for the night…no way. These horses
need a bit more shelter – as we do to. And they need grass.
Two hours later we reach a place a bit down (at 3100 m), a good camping
spot.
I cook for the whole group, as it gets darker. But we enjoy the dinner and
the very humble campfire…that is hour gas burner (no fire wood in sight)
Next morning our dear Pat informs us that we only have four hours to the
first village on this side. Good news..But we find it hard to believe.
Estimations of time are not something that the locals are good at.
The surroundings are once again grand – a bit like Swedish Lapland. And
again we are lucky with the weather. As we ride through this serene
landscape we suddenly spot two flocks of Ibex - then an eagle appears.
We only have our cameras to shoot with
As the landscape slowly changes with different shades of green, brown,
grey and white we realize that the promised four hours are quite far from
the truth.
The landscape and the scenery are fantastic. It changes all the time.
Different angles, different colors, valleys, high mountains.. It is all from a
fantasy wonderland. This is Tolkien country.
The riding path is also quite something – but there is a limit to what one
can absorb and our focus is more and more to get this village. He horses
are very tired.
After eight hours of hard riding in amazing surroundings we finally get to
a place with two big satellite antennas, five houses and few jeeps we have
finally reached our goal. We expected our truck to be here, but it is
nowhere in sight…but that is another story..
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