HE RUNS LIKE A MADMAN..

TEKES / 9.5. 2007 /--- He runs like a madman. So eager to show off. It feels like this is the first time…, as he has never experienced anything like this before. Everybody has to be greeted; everybody has to be informed that this he is around. Seems like the energy is never ending …I wonder if this is his real home. Mentally it must be. But was he born here?

We finally arrived to Shatu. A rat hole of a city. Or not really a city…a small town, village. But it did feel like coming back to civilization after that very rough experience up in the mountains. A typical border town in fact. This one quite close to the Kazak border. This is an area not open for foreigners. So again, we are like something from outer space for these people who are mostly Kyrgyz, In fact this is a Kyrgyz town – one of only two on this side of the Tien Shan mountain range. The communities here are organized by the military – in a way to control this sensitive area. At least that is how the Chinese military thinks. They are very much on their toes regarding possible Islamic activities. Maybe they have their reasons. The ethnic minorities here are Kyrgyz, Kazak, Mongol and Uyghur. The last one is by far the largest. And the one that is most difficult to control. The communities are small and spread out like dots around the whole of Xingjian – a Kazak village here a Kyrgyz or Mongol village there. They often have very romantic names like “ village # 3 (in district # 2) - this in Chinese of course. In Kazak, Kyrgyz, Mongol or Uyghur more traditional names prevail. The languages are quite similar - it is not so difficult for these minorities to communicate with each other. The ruling language – Chinese might then be another story. At least for older people. Kudlja, or Yining in Chinese used to be a very Uyghur city with some Russian influences, in the late 19th century that area was occupied by Russia for a short period Now it is a quite Chinese city with very few reminders of its history. It is a city of few hundred thousand inhabitants - half of them Uyghur. The other half Chinese, Kazak and some other minority groups. This city experienced some heavy rioting ten years ago. This subject is almost taboo, still today. According to Amnesty report 190 young Uyghurs were killed. It all started as a peaceful demonstration for religious rights. And what happened then is a bit unclear. But law and order was restored with rough means. When we came to Kuldja/ Yining everything seemed to be business as usual. Lot of people in the streets enjoying the warm spring weather. Street vendors, hacker stalls, restaurants etc This city is still an important trading place and agricultural center. It is close to the Kazak border and one can see a lot of signs written in Russian text. The river Ili almost runs through the city and the valley that surrounds it is a very important agricultural area. Few days here were enough and it was time to go back to Shatu and join our horses and to start with our new crew. We had already said goodbye to our mountain guide friends and now it was time do so with Akbar #2. It was emotional - as it very often is with Uyghurs. For us too it was a bit sad. Akbar did his job well. But all things must pass. Even nice guides. Our new guide is a Kazak - a young man by the name of Ayken. Very lively, with a good laugh. It also turned out that his horse skills were by far the best of these four interpreters. So we rented a car, drove back to Shatu through a very green and beautiful landscape. Green pastures as they call them. After some preparing and also experiencing the first rain in months we finally got up on the horses again – heading towards the North East – to the city of Tekes. This 120 km ride was something that we looked forward to. Finally some really good riding grounds. The horses also seemed to eager to get going. Too many days in the stable and before that many days on a truck when being transported here. The weather was fine. Fresh and full of oxygen after the rain and thunder storm the day before. Off we went – and after a pleasant day we found a god camping spot near a small creek. This morning was a bit chilly. But the skies were clear. I looked like a fine day ahead. Gustaf seemed to be in god spirits. Restless as usual and full of energy. Good, because the terrain looked terrific. After a longer than usual lunch break we did go back to the horses. A steep rise and we were up on a beautiful plateau. Fantastic area. Like golf course after golf course. Only without the holes and flags…and the no players either. So, here we are. Many hours of nice riding still ahead. Here and there one can see herds of horses, cows. Some sheep too. Very picturesque. Off we go. Gustaf, the young stallion from far away Kashgar salutes everybody - near and far. He wants all the time really get going. Even though it is a tiresome to hold him back most of the time…it is fun. He is clearly on home turf. Lot of testosterone. Lot of energy. Its springtime!

All news