ONE DAY TO THE GLACIER 25.4

Poenchengzi – this dusty coal-mining village was our starting point. A grey, almost black town. Even though miners smiled and waved happily whenever bumping into one. It was like they were totally unaware of how dangerous and unhealthy their work is. Maybe it is better so.

“KAINLYK 30.3. 1907 The valley, or more like a crack in the mountains has a direction towards the west. Further on the massive mountain walls on both sides, point to the northwest. Within a quarter of an hour the elevation is almost 200 meters. The cliffs point vertically to the green river below. Filip, my horse, seems almost to be fascinated by the landscape and he wants constantly to walk on the edge that is not so comfortable. One could think that he has suicide in mind.. At the foot of the mountain is a large Saraj. It is almost a ruin. The ovens are totally broken, the windows without paper – even without frames. The walls have big holes, some repaired with badly fitted stones. Even though it is with pleasure one seeks shelter from the strong gale that has been hunting us for most of the day. The guard gives his room to us. The window glass is replaced with pieces of paper of different kind – one yellow cardboard piece has the text “ Sunlight Soap” in big letters….. Today is last resting place with firewood available on this side of the glacier. Three individuals with frozen faces mostly covered with bandage, here and there rests of dead horses are proof of the seriousness of this kind of undertaking.. “ --- The road from Aksu up to this mining village is quite depressing – except for the last thirty kilometers – some pastures and creeks could be spotted. With horses, cattle and sheep. The mountains appeared suddenly. Partly because of the dust storm. Fine sand dust everywhere. It will be nice to get to the other side of these Heavenly Mountains. The guesthouse rooms are surprisingly spacey – with fairly new color TV and all. And it is working; one can enjoy a dozen of Chinese satellite channels. The contrast between the reality here and what it shown on TV is stunning Even though this is a very important link to the so-called civilization. The second and last night for us at this guesthouse was not so calm. Something must have been going on. Maybe a wolves on the move, because the all the dogs in the neighborhood were barking desperately. A bit spooky, I say. The morning is clearer than in days A day and a half for preparation behind and we are off, with a blue old truck, that will take us some way up the road. Or it is actually a path. This little known part of the Silk Road has not been open a regular trade route since the late forties. Before that it was for hundred of years a fairly well used link between the north and the south. There have been some plans for making a highway using this route. Dream further, I say. Must be better options. The road up to the glacier is a bumpy one. I feel a bit sorry for the guys sitting with all our stuff. In the first village we did pick up our local mountain guide – a 58-year-old Uyghur with very few teeth left. He does not look that strong to me. I feel a bit worried considering that he has also promised to carry 15 kg of our luggage. We will see. The scenery got greener further up the road. With the truly beautiful spots. This area does not lack activity. In fact, here are at least three large granite quarries. This is the starting point for these huge blocks on their way to eastern part of China. And for us it is the real starting point for this glacier crossing – that is 20km away.

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