Aksu

10.4. Aksu

We arrived here yesterday in a police escort. Two Chinese police officers from the sleepy town of Kelpin – some 175 km to the Southwest. This was not voluntary trip. We were forced to leave our camp – due to bad communication between different Chinese authorities. And because our dear Mr. GAO who did not double-check this in advance. Anyway, Aksu was to be our base until everything was in order. Sigh…
The brighter side of this was that we could have a proper shower, bed with sheets and all other modern commodities.

Aksu lies at the base of barren yellow loess cliffs, its oasis stretching from in a long greenish belt along the banks of the Aksu River. The area is frequently visited by light dust or sandstorms generating a creepy kind of fog around the sand mounds and the ruins of the Han. Dynasty beacon towers.

Neolithic artifacts from 5000 BC have been discovered in this area.
By the first century BC, news reached the Chinese imperial court concerning the Kingdom of Baluka (as Aksu was formerly called). It was one of the 36 kingdoms of the Western Regions. The Kingdom held out against a Chinese attack led by General Ban Chao, who finally marched upon the city in 78 AD and executed 700 inhabitants.

One thousand and four hundred years later Telug Khan of Mogholistan made his capital in Aksu. By the late 19th century the Chinese re-established control of the City.
Today Asksu is a very Chinese city. Over 300.000 inhabitants and the majority is Chinese The Uyghur influence is diminishing quickly. In this, modern and surprisingly pedestrian friendly down town, one can find some monuments or statues of Uyghur folklore. Large pedestrian areas are covered with grey marble or granite. It all looks very flashy – like a model, stating; this is the new China!

“ Aksu / 2.3. 1907

In the afternoon, the walls of Yangitsar, the Chinese part of the city was within our reach – and furthermore two hours of riding, over some loess cliffs that divides the Chinese part from the Sart (Uyghur), part of Aksu. We settled in the latter part of the city, where the Russian Consul has his large Caravanserai. The Consul was kind enough to give his private living quarters to my disposal. A large room with two glass windows and an iron stove.
To have a warm room, sitting on a proper chair at a sturdy table and eating a good portion of warm soup a was a true enjoyment, especially after eleven and half hours of hard labor on horseback.
The Consul, a respectable and handsome old man with a white beard treated me with freshly baked wheat bread, mutton fat and stomach of lamb filled with not so fresh, sour butter.
Seldom has it felt so pleasant to go to bed after a proper washing. And the pleasant dreams that followed took me back to days gone by with beauty and wonderful music… Suddenly I woke up and realized that it was all a dream everything but the music, that came on the hour from a clock - probably one of the old mans valuable belongings… “

This city has changed a lot since Mannerheims visit. No trace of anything that he describes. Lot of high-rise buildings, illuminated during the nighttime with bright neon colors while the locals dance on the large square to romantic Chinese chewing gum pop music. They all look very serious and the choreography is very geometric with waltz-like turns. But it is obvious that they are all having fun and relaxing..

Aksu has in many ways a very different feel compared with Kashgar. Aksu feels more like a contemporary big city, even if it is smaller than Kashgar –which has a much stronger Uyghur influence.
Two days ago – just when we had managed to put or camp in order and were about to leave for Kelpin, 10 km to the west – then a police car appeared out of nowhere. Three officers stepped out – one young Chinese woman and two middle aged Uyghur men.

- Passports please!.. Suddenly all of our crew look very stiff and scared.

Akbar, our guide repeats the demand twice. Well, it was not unclear to us what they wanted, but Akbar seems to be very nervous. I tell him to take it easy. We have nothing to hide..
Thirty minutes and lot of talk later, both on and off the phone the verdict are clear. We have to follow them (police) to Kelpin city (…eh).

The police inform us that we are in an area not open for foreigners and without proper permits. Absolutely out of question that we can stay the night here. They promise to take us to the best hotel in town for the night.

The hotel is a true dump. A Chinese so called government hotel. Its dirty, with no towels, no hot water – equipped with broken lamps and broken chairs.

But it is ok for us – only the price they try to charge is not. After some negotiations, the charge for the room is somewhat more in line with the quality.
Once in Kelpin we are free to move around – so we head for dinner at local Uyghur restaurant. No beers, its Muslim - but the food is very good. The best Shish kebab we have had.
Just when I am about to finish my fourth skewer of lamb meat a young man j comes to our table.

- Hello I am Palvan, can I join you.

He looks very kind and somewhat out of place in this remote village. Akbar looks at him with suspicion. He sits down and asks if he can treat us with dinner or something…
It turns out that Palvan is a native of this village – but he has been studying in Urumchi and Shanghai for many years. Now he was back and working for the government as a computer specialist. He speaks a very good English and is very interested in our journey.
- He is a spy… whispers Akbar at some point.
We find it hard to believe. Palvan seems to be genuinely interested. He is also very proud of his roots but not so comfortable being back in Kelpin.

We are obviously some fresh air for him.
The Internet café is almost identical to all other we have seen in China so far. Small rooms filled with old and very dirty computer. Crowded with smoking teenagers playing computer games on the net. Not so easy to do some work on these slow machines. But interesting though.

Palvan walks back to the hotel with us… and Akbar whispers suddenly again

- Palvan is a good Uyghur. He is not a spy…I think.
We agree..

Next morning, Mr Guo informs us by text message that everything is ok. Good, we can continue – but as we step out from the hotel one of the police officers from yesterday greets us with the information that we have to go to Aksu. No permissions yet! They will take us to the bus station. The bus will depart within some hours and in the evening we will be in Aksu.

Fucking Guo!... what has happened. Obviously nothing.. With bus…for some five hours… No way Jose!

After some more negotiations, this time with the local Police Commander – who is very friendly and forth coming. He promises a police escort to Aksu.
The female police officer from yesterday will be our escort. She changes clothes and comes back ten minutes later in a very neat uniform. And she looks happy. Time to hit the big town…
Suddenly all these Police officers are friendly and relaxed. Obviously we have made their day. We are treated with tangerines and Pepsi…

All news