|
| 05.11.2007 |
| ARRESTED !.. AND DEPORTATION.. / Beijing 5.11. 2007
|
| But Around the corner then straight ahead, only about 500 meter more to Tiananmen
Square. My horse Gustaf was in good spirits and wanted to proceed in trot. People
were smiling and waving to us. Suddenly a policeman pops out of nowhere. He raises
his hand and screams something. It’s to late to stop…so I just wave at him. |
|
| 04.11.2007 |
| INDIANS AND COW TOWS../ 22.10. 2007
|
| I am still standing on one of the big stones - on Gustaf’s right side and I decide to
make it easy for both him and me. So I lift my left leg to bend over the saddle. Then
it happens – Gustaf sets off in full gallop. |
|
| 18.10.2007 |
| GRASSLANDS REVISITED / Somewher north of Hohhot/10.10.
|
| “-You have to go more than 100 km to the northwest to get to the good grasslands.
They are really beautiful..”, said our local guide in Hohhot.
Hmm… that is in the wrong directio |
|
| 07.10.2007 |
| A LITTLE CIVILIZATION, PLEASE.. / Hohhot / 2.10. 2007
|
| Welcome to de Da Dong Holiday Hotel…. It’s very, very Chinese. A lot of smiling
faces and they are all very excited. One small guy in a black suit has headphones
with microphone, screaming something in it, as he is rapidly moving forward in the
corridor. And we follow as celebrated group of….sheep. |
|
| 05.10.2007 |
| MOON CAKES AND WILD SWANS / Shahukou / 26.9. 2007
|
| Excuse me. My mother said, if you want to have a rest. You can go upstair. It’s our
house. |
|
| 02.10.2007 |
| NEW PHOTOS ADDED
|
| We have added some new photos from the journey to the gallery. |
|
| 01.10.2007 |
| AT THE GATES OF HELL.. / Yojing /25.9. 2007
|
| It is a constant sound. A rumbling sound of heavy trucks passing by. Sometimes
the old fashioned tucking of a three-wheeler break it
I just wonder how many of these blackened dusty monsters pass by per hour…too
tired to start counting. But, I cannot get in to a good sleep either. Nothing wrong
with this bed – even if the hotel itself is quite funky.
|
|
| 20.09.2007 |
| DALAROY WAS HERE!.. /18.9. 2007
|
| The familiar sound of fighter jets in early morning did wake me up. The day before
they were flying so high that it was almost difficult to see them – but now the roar
over the Wutai Shan Mountains was so strong. The serene beauty of the landscape
is in sharp contrast with these killer birds. And so are most of the buildings in this
village just in outskirts of the cluster of temples and monasteries here.
We were back on the road again – after spending a week resting and sightseeing in
the oh-so polluted city of Taiyuan. The coal capital of China
|
|
| 14.09.2007 |
| FINALLY TURNING TO THE NORTH../ Taiyuan 6.9. 2007
|
| One can really feel the tension in the air. People start to look more frequently at the
big signboard…When, when? Until the announcement finally comes, from loudspeakers
of poor quality. People rush to the gate – as it would be some kind of lottery. Which
it is in a way. |
|
| 09.09.2007 |
| AMAZING GRACE IN A CHINESE PLACE.. / Hua Shan / 1.9. 2007
|
| He is about sixty years old, short but seems to be in good shape. He carries his
load on a 1,5 meter long stick – the weight evenly distributed. No hands. Then he
puts his flute to his mouth and starts to play. Lifts his left foot to knee…
All this on a very narrow cliff… half meter of solid rock on each side – otherwise a
free fall of many hundred meters..
|
|
| 04.09.2007 |
| SMALL TOWELS AND MUDDY RIVERS../ Luoyang / 31.8. 2007
|
| A lot of neon lights. This is like a Luna park. Wonder where the hotel is…. The
small Chinese car with blinking hazard lights turns left up a steep road towards the
mountain.
The hotel is small, very clean – for being a Chinese enterprise. A small bargaining
session and we decide to stay. It is still raining.
|
|
| 28.08.2007 |
| RING OUT THE OLD , BANG IN THE NEW.. / Xian / 21.8. 2007
|
| “According to the historical records carved in the stone tablets which are still
preserved in it, the mosque was set up in 742 AD during the Tang Dynasty. So it
has already had a history of over 1,250 years. The mosque was restored in the
Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing Dynasties. Especially after the founding of New China,
and owing to the correct religious policies for the minority nationalities by the
Communist Party and Peoples Government, the authorities concerned allocates
special funds for the renovations of the mosque every year. So that, the mosque
has gradually become such a large and brilliant complex of the historical
architecture….” |
|
| 24.08.2007 |
| INTO TO THE DARKNESS.. / Fengxiang / 13.8.2007
|
| It was dark. Very dark and the sound was terrible. So were the fumes, the dust on
this uphill road. Our horses were afraid and neither were we comfortable with the
situation.
There was no way around this tunnel. He trucks are big and the road itself is
narrow. And no fans either.
The length? – Over 500 meters…and this was the first one - not the longest one
either. Ugly, very ugly. And also dangerous..
|
|
| 23.08.2007 |
| THERE IS RIVER BETWEEN US../ Baoji/ 12.8. 2007
|
| There was no bridge and our horses seemed to be totally unaware of that. Or they did
not care. Happily grazing on the other side of the river. Accompanying them was our
new Kyrgyz guide Suyunbay and our horseman Mahmut. The expression on their faces
was something else.. |
|
| 22.08.2007 |
| WE WONT GET STUCK AGAIN..EH / Tianshui / 10.8. 2007
|
| The truck got stuck - again. Sand, water and stones – plus some mud. The road that
used to be did not exist anymore. Some concrete blocks here and there but basically
the road or route for the last five kilometers had been on the levy. Not easy for any
car and especially not for our heavy truck. |
|
| 13.08.2007 |
| YOU HAVE DESTROYED THE TOWEL.. / Wushan / 6.8. 2007
|
| The manager of the hotel – a woman who had toured Europe some years ago and
fell in love with Rome. She is a former journalist, turned hotel manager and hotel
designer. She was very proud of her creation. This was also our luck because she
was thrilled by everything European..
|
|
| 08.08.2007 |
| BEAUTIFUL BADLANDS.. / Hezuo / 2.8. 2007
|
| - Don’t go there.. Last year a woman was killed – with a knife the bandits cut her
throat. And shortly before that a group from Shanghai was robbed. They took
everything. Even their clothes.. You must believe me!” Said Jimba - our Tibetan
police officer and newly found friend in need |
|
| 06.08.2007 |
| A PLAYING GROUND FOR THE RED GUARDS/ Labrang /27.7. 2007
|
| The monasteries are no exception - the 300 nuns are at the bottom. They do all
the hard work. While lot of the monks do nothing. In fact many of them are quite
wealthy due to a lot of donations. And when visiting the monastery we did not feel
welcome.
|
|
| 31.07.2007 |
| FUNERAL FOR A FRIEND. /Labrang /23.7. 2007
|
| It was a bit like looking at a movie that was taking place many years ago. The
women were working hard –and they also got help from the men every now and then.
Everybody seemed to be in good spirits, which felt a little absurd |
|
| 28.07.2007 |
| TRAGEDY IN THE DARK../ Labrang/ 19.7.2007
|
| There has been an accident…
The look on his face was that of a scared child’s
We rushed out from the tent. It was very dark outside. A sound could be
heard from a distance. Like a moaning. It was difficult to anything. I could
feel the presence of the horses…but something was truly wrong.
Mahmut, our horseman shouted from a distance and his voice sounded
also shattered. It came from somewhere below..
|
|
| 26.07.2007 |
| HE IS FRIDAY THE 13TH.. / Linxia / 16.7.2007
|
| “…But To-ni, I think it is a reasonable price…”
My jaws dropped, this was not a reasonable price at all. It was Thursday
and a rainy one and no tourists in sight – just the boat keepers, at least
thirty of them.
|
|
| 23.07.2007 |
| Update on where we are
|
| After Lanzhou we continued towards the South and the Binglisi grottoes.
Then the Muslim rtown of Linxia
After that further south to Labrang - also called "little Lhasa. Located on
3300m obowe sealevel. After some serious accident ( more on blogs later)
on the 23.7 the expedition continues towards the east.. |
|
| 14.07.2007 |
| ONE OF THE MOST POLLUTED CITIES../ Lanzhou /12.7. 2007
|
| What a relief. A bit like breathing fresh air. It may sound like an advertisement
but being able to watch BBC World after almost four month of just Chinese news
broadcasting. And even that very occasionally…it sure felt like freedom.
But that ended very quickly..
|
|
| 11.07.2007 |
| LUXURY IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE../ Yellow Sheep River Town / 6.7. 2007
|
| The road just goes up and up. It’s dark and late. Again, this was supposed to be a
much shorter distance.. In this light it sure is difficult to holes in the road. I hope
we will find the hooves smiths place soon. |
|
| 06.07.2007 |
| MY BONES ARE ACHING../ Somwhere in The Gansu / 1.7. 2007
|
| Every bone in my body is aching. My neck, back, arms, feet, joints, muscles. Must
be the long time stress. Also the stomach feels strange.
The heaviest part, both mentally and physically are physically should be long
behind..
But, obviously my body has another language – this must be the true body
language
|
|
| 03.07.2007 |
| THUNDER FROM ABOVE / Zhangye / 30.6. 2007
|
| The sound is oh so familiar. Even though I have not heard it since my childhood.
And even then only a few times. But as a young boy you do remember these
things.
Finland used to have MIG 21s… I think. Luckily not any more. If not for anything
else but the noise, not to mention the fuel consumption. And somehow I do not
trust Russian engineering but I am by no means an expert on aviation
|
|
| 28.06.2007 |
| TOWARDS THE BIRTHPLACE OF KUBLAI KHAN../ Jiuquan County / 25.6 2007
|
| We found a nice place to camp in a small village east of town, with a lot of green
grass, water and bunch very curious farmers. All with same expression on their
faces…..” what are they doing here? |
|
| 25.06.2007 |
| HE WAS HERE BEFORE BUT../ Dunhuang / 20.6. 2007
|
| It is a mirage. The desert is endless and rough. It is of course hot too. Still we have
quite a way to go before we reach Dunhuang |
|
| 20.06.2007 |
| THE BEARD IS INTACT.. / Hami / 15.6.2007
|
|
The astonished Khan is said to have replied: “.. Since you desire your own shame,
you may have it.” |
|
| 17.06.2007 |
| A SHRINKING LAKE AND A MOUNTAIN TEMPLE / Nankachou / 12.6.2007
|
|
Brick after brick…after brick. The two young men work with a good speed and
systematically too. The wooden frame is not big - four bricks at a time can be
made. These two young Mongols use sand water and something that vaguely
reminds me of cement. The sand is plentiful and ever so available here.
|
|
| 16.06.2007 |
| THREE BARONS ALLEY../ 4.6. 2007
|
| Where the hell are they? I have been sitting in this hotel lobby for three hours. And I
am not a guest.. The lady at the reception is looking at me with a mixture of
amazement and suspicion - amazement because she rarely see any foreigners and
suspicion because foreigners are supposed to be at least a bit suspicious. |
|
| 09.06.2007 |
| CHINESE DISNEY WORLD / 27.5. 2007
|
| This is Chinese Disney World – and I am suddenly a tourist. After two
month of hardly seeing anything but locals who stare at you as the main
attraction of the week
Or to be more adequate, the main attraction of the year.it some feels
like a relief to be somewhere where foreigners as fairly common. At the
same time it is a bit annoying to be served everything in a Chinese Disney
manner – line up there, buy ticket, buy souvenirs. Look at artifacts in that
are more or less badly made copies of the real thing. Be amazed. Take
pictures. Buy souvenirs… After ten minutes the sense of relief is quickly
disappearing
|
|
| 09.06.2007 |
| YOU ARE NOT ALOWED TO SLEEP HERE / 25.5. 2007
|
| This clean city is 45 km north of Karashär. It looks like any x Chinese city
of this size. Straight and broad streets – lined with streetlights of same
design as in all other cities. White, curved with some decoration attached
at the top. Very stalinesque…or should one say maoesque. A bit like
coming to a shrine.. just take away the “a” and the “e” – mosque….This
clean city is 45 km north of Karashär. It looks like any x Chinese city of
this size. Straight and broad streets – lined with streetlights of same
design as in all other cities. White, curved with some decoration attached
at the top. Very stalinesque…or should one say maoesque. A bit like
coming to a shrine.. just take away the “a” and the “e” – mosque….This
clean city is 45 km north of Karashär. It looks like any x Chinese city of
this size. Straight and broad streets – lined with streetlights of same
design as in all other cities. White, curved with some decoration attached
at the top. Very stalinesque…or should one say maoesque. A bit like
coming to a shrine.. just take away the “a” and the “e” – mosque….This
clean city is 45 km north of Karashär. It looks like any x Chinese city of
this size. Straight and broad streets – lined with streetlights of same
design as in all other cities. White, curved with some decoration attached
at the top. Very stalinesque…or should one say maoesque. A bit like
coming to a shrine.. just take away the “a” and the “e” – mosque…. |
|
| 02.06.2007 |
| TOP SECRET..WITH EYES CLOSED / 24.5. 2007
|
| China is changing. Even these remote parts. It feels strange to see so much newly
raised barbed wire out here. Large steppe areas that just months ago were accessible
for everyone. Not so anymore |
|
| 01.06.2007 |
| ENLIGHTENED CEILING../ HEIJING 23.5 2007
|
| 15 Yuan for a thin noodle soup. What a price for such a treat…eh. This was their lucky
day. Anyway, it was warm and it even had meat in it. Small, small pieces of dried
goat meat. At least it was not goats head soup. But the Beer was cold. |
|
| 29.05.2007 |
| THIS IS CHINA, PART II or DUST IN MY PANTS..PLEASE / KARASHAR/ 24.5. 2007
|
| Its hot – and to have these riding trousers.. And long johns underneath are quite
something. To sit in the saddle for eight hours /day…something needs to be done. It
is like having a wetsuit on all the time. |
|
| 22.05.2007 |
| AND EAGLES, IBEX..AND MONGOLS /KOK SU 17.5.2007
|
|
Suddenly there were 3 motorbikes – out in this wilderness. Two young boys
on all three. With plastic bags filled with something.
How on earth have they made their way here? And why?
By pertinence and determination they have made this very dangerous
journey on these small bikes.
Morels, local morels were the answer. Very valuable – not for preparing
food.
These delicious mushrooms are not used for cooking but as a vital part of
Chinese medicine. Over 1000 RMB/ kilo…and that is a lot of money
|
|
| 21.05.2007 |
| BLACK HAWK DOWN.. / 14.5.2007
|
| Something happened down there… All three horses seemed to react in a
strange way. And then this thing from the sky. . Like a missile. The three
riders - Kristian and our two temporary crewmembers, or guests to be
precise - Henrik and Staffan seemed to be ok.
My horse Gustaf was in a hurry. He could hardly see his companions. That
clearly worried him. To be without a whip on path like this does not feel
that comfortable.
Again, perfect ski slopes with vertical drops all around between 400 meters
to 1000 meters. Luckily there was no snow because we were not on skis..
The path down was very narrow and boy was it steep on all sides. Thank
God the weather was perfect.
Our horseman Mahmet was behind with Filip II – our first gelding. So that
made Gustaf a little bit less nervous. But the speed was quite something
anyway..
|
|
| 11.05.2007 |
| HE RUNS LIKE A MADMAN..
|
| TEKES / 9.5. 2007 /---
He runs like a madman. So eager to show off. It feels like this is the first time…,
as he has never experienced anything like this before. Everybody has to be
greeted; everybody has to be informed that this he is around. Seems like the
energy is never ending …I wonder if this is his real home. Mentally it must be. But
was he born here?
|
|
| 04.05.2007 |
| IS THIS IT?
|
| His socks are mended many times. Fixed with different pieces of cloth. In fact he
has two pairs of socks. And now his slowly, slowly taking them off – first from the
left foot and then the right one.
Hi grins like it would be painful… and that shows that he has very few teeth in his
mouth left. And those who are still there have a deep brown color.
His bare feet are covered with red dots. No wonder after this.
He looks at me with an empty look. It is very difficult to tell what he might
think. But I don’t care – did not like him from the start
|
|
| 01.05.2007 |
| ONE DAY TO THE GLACIER 25.4
|
| Poenchengzi – this dusty coal-mining village was our starting point. A grey,
almost black town. Even though miners smiled and waved happily whenever
bumping into one.
It was like they were totally unaware of how dangerous and unhealthy their
work is.
Maybe it is better so.
|
|
| 01.05.2007 |
| THIS IS CHINA....PART I
|
| Check in, check out.. |
|
| 30.04.2007 |
| MAOS BROTHER AND SEVEN SISTERS
|
|
It is very green. Lot of trees. Ever street is lined with poplars. Nothing old here
though – except for the fortress on the mountain. Actually it is not a fortress
anymore – it is a park and playground. Very dominant are two towers – China
Unicom and China telecom. These landmarks can be spotted in every town… |
|
| 22.04.2007 |
| USHTURFAN/WUSHI 17.4. 2007
|
| We woke up just before six. The sun is about to rise. It was a good nights sleep.
Our plan for the day was, besides getting hopefully to Ushturpan or Wushi in Chinese
– to get rid of our useless guide.
|
|
| 20.04.2007 |
| KELPINTAGH 15.4. 2007
|
| A kingdom for a donkey!..The usual story. First there are donkeys for sale almost
everywhere. Every second village has its market with everything for sale. Especially
donkeys. But not now when we need a donkey or preferably two. |
|
| 10.04.2007 |
| Aksu
|
| 10.4. Aksu
We arrived here yesterday in a police escort. Two Chinese police
officers from the sleepy town of Kelpin – some 175 km to the
Southwest. This was not voluntary trip. We were forced to leave
our camp – due to bad communication between different Chinese
authorities. And because our dear Mr. GAO who did not
double-check this in advance. Anyway, Aksu was to be our base
until everything was in order. Sigh…
The brighter side of this was that we could have a proper
shower, bed with sheets and all other modern commodities.
|
|
| 08.04.2007 |
| Akbar
|
| Everything is here. I always carry this with me… |
|
| 06.04.2007 |
| The blinking multicolored lights do look strange
|
| 6.4. Sankachow Its dark and
the thundering sound of the by passing trucks is a strange
soundtrack in this desert town. There are at least five enormous
gas stations. They all look alike. Never seen so high and wide
constructions for this purpose. |
|
| 29.03.2007 |
| Windows are so dirty
|
| 29.3.2007 Kashgar
Very difficult to see anything, luckily we got some hot water in
our compartment. Hot water bottles are very common in China.
Tea is a commodity…on trains that is. After a few twists and
turns we manage to open the ventilation window. To clean it, the
outside while the train is running is a bit complicated… |
|
| 30.08.2006 |
| Home again...
|
| The first part of our journey from Osh to Kashi is done. We'll
tell you more soon... |
